Barbecue touring, Central Texas-style, means wandering around smallish towns, mostly east of Austin, settled in the mid-1800s by German, Czech and Polish immigrants.
It also means tucking into plates of handmade sausage, often dipping it into little cups of barbecue sauce. At Elgin’s Southside Market, about 25 miles east of Austin, that sauce can be hot or mild.
But it’s the sausage that holds your attention. I like the spicy version, but no matter what – it’s the crumbling meat and rich smoke flavor you sink into. You’re forever ruined; you’ll never like the junk sold in everyday grocery stores again.
On our recent Central Texas BBQ tour, we drove from Austin on Day 1, starting our eating expedition at Elgin, where we loved the pinto beans almost as much as the sausage. There was also Blue Bell Ice Cream, a must at many barbecue places in this part of the country.
We departed Elgin and headed east, pointing the car toward Shiner, Texas, from whence some of the best beer anywhere flows.
Driving mostly along two-lane highways, we gazed with dropped jaws at the rich green of the countryside, strewn with beautiful wildflowers – still going strong even in later spring. We didn’t stop for too many photos, however; we wanted to be sure to reach Shiner before the last tour at the Spoetzl Brewery.
That’s the one tricky thing about visiting Shiner: To get to see how the beer’s made, you must visit Monday through Friday. That’s probably because the folks making the beer want the whole weekend free to enjoy it for themselves, right.
So we pulled into Shiner about 2 p.m., tickled at finding a shop on the main drag with a sign reading: Art, Antiques & Beer: Come drink and shop! My kind of store.
Worried about missing the tour at the brewery, we pushed on. Shopping would have to wait.
But not for long, as it turned out. Once we reached the Spoetzl Brewery, we found we’d just missed the last public tour.
That meant we simply had to hang out in the tasting room, which is also the Shiner souvenir shop. Smart, huh?
So we sipped several (tiny cups of) good, cold beer while checking out the glassware, T-shirts and even a Shiner Beer Cookbook. Yes, I bought some of all those things.
But the best find that Friday afternoon in Shiner was the Smokehouse, a summer beer Shiner will produce for just the second season this year.
It’s got just a hint of spice, smoke and sweetness, and you better believe it’s perfect for pairing with barbecue.
Just as we were enjoying the cold beer and admiring our purchases, one of the tasting room attendants asked if we’d like to join in a private tour that was about to start. Naturally, we did.
It was a wedding party, gathering in the area for a nuptial celebration the following day. Turns out, the bride and groom live near us in Fort Worth. A good sign for all, we agreed.
The tour lasts a little less than a half-hour, mostly because everyone wants to taste more Shiner, of course. We sipped a bit longer, said our congrats to the happy couple and their happy friends and made our way down the road again.
Our next stop was in Gonzales, a town known as the site where the first conflict in the Texas Revolution took place. But good barbecue hounds like it today for the Gonzales Food Market.
It’s not much to look at but, boy howdy, the food’s sure good. There’s a menu for lots of hungry cowboys, but we just wanted a taste of this and that.
Brisket’s good, sausage is fine, but it’s the lamb ribs that make my heart go pitter-pat. With marinated cucumber salad on the side, this was a little taste of joy.
The drive back to Austin took us along more beautiful roads, mostly quiet drives until we hit Luling, home to the City Market with yet more wonderful barbecue. It’s another place where you get your servings on sheets of butcher paper. We’re plotting a return trip here for late June, when the Luling Watermelon Thump brings hundreds of revelers to town.
By the time we pulled into our hotel in Austin, night was about to fall. We were full (as ticks, as my ranch friends like to say) and wondering how on earth we could manage to eat more barbecue tonight.
Resting up for an hour or so, we rose to the occasion and headed into the Austin night in search of one more barbecue meal before calling it a day.
I know folks think you should just drive on down to the Salt Lick – that’s in Driftwood, south of Austin – but I think there’s plenty of good barbecue right in town. You can go to Stubb’s, of course, and there’s the Iron Works, too.
But I’ve been intrigued by Ruby’s BBQ, found on Guadalupe at 29th St. (This isn’t Rudy’s, which is a small chain around Texas, OK?)
Ruby’s gained notoriety for serving all natural meats, you see. And it’s got the hippy-dippy Austin vibe down pat, and that’s a good thing.
The menu’s impressive, and – if you’ve got the right appetite – you can eat an impressive assortment of goods. But we’d been grazing all day, so a sandwich was the best we could do.
And oh, what a sandwich. The chopped beef, topped with housemade pickles, made me a little light-headed. Tender, deeply smoked and a bit spicy, this shredded brisket puts most others to shame. And while you wouldn’t consider this the ideal side dish, I couldn’t resist the collard greens, fresh and coarsely cut, also made just a smidge spicy. Somehow, we managed also a few bites of the coconut-pineapple buttermilk pie, which served as the perfect sweet ending to a great day of barbecue touring.
Stay tuned for Day 2 of the Central Texas BBQ tour.






Posted by junenaylor 















